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gender, citizenship and dress in modernising Japan
- Categories
- Article/Artikel
- Magazine Title
- IIAS Newsletter
- Magazine Year
- 2008
- Magazine Number
- 46
- Creator
- Molony, Barbara
- Description
- Between the 1870s and 1945, dress was a signifier of Japan's transition from an 'Oriental' country - subordinate to the West - to a bearer of 'universal' modernity in East Asia. By the early 20th century, when Japan had largely achieved diplomatic equality with the West and colonial dominion over parts of Asia, Western dress had come to be taken for granted by 'modern' Japanese men and used as a symbol of equal rights by some Japanese women.
dress and bodily practice in Thai nation building
- Categories
- Article/Artikel
- Magazine Title
- IIAS Newsletter
- Magazine Year
- 2008
- Magazine Number
- 46
- Creator
- Peleggi, Maurizio
- Description
- The spread of Western fashion in Bangkok was stigmatised by King Vajiravudh (Rama VI, 1910-25), the official 'father' of Thai nationalism, who ridiculed Thais in 'shabby Western clothes' as imitators of Europeans. The targets of the king’s class-based sarcasm were in fact the writers and journalists that animated a nascent public sphere and denounced, from the pages of newspapers, periodicals and novels, Siam's social inequalities and women’s subjugation. Modern fashion promoted the redefinition of social and gender boundaries through its link to new democratic social spaces, like the representation of women as sophisticated consumers in magazines, advertisements and films. State propaganda notably privileged women over men as physical embodiments of Thai civility. Even the change in the official spelling of the country's inhabitants from tai to thai, to make use of the homographic word meaning 'free',was conveyed in terms of the difference between an ordinary and a fashionable woman.
- Categories
- Article/Artikel
- Magazine Title
- IIAS Newsletter
- Magazine Year
- 2008
- Magazine Number
- 46
- Creator
- Taylor, Jean Gelman
- Thesaurus
- kleding, mode, gender, emancipatie, identiteit, nationalisme, islam, Indonesië, 20e eeuw
- Description
- Dress is a powerful signifier of historical time, age, gender, class, religious and political orientations. It is often discussed in relation to fashion and therefore to change. Dress is also frequently examined in terms of 'native' or 'traditional', in contrast to Western or universal dress. In Indonesia, variations in dress shed light on political and religious changes and mirror contemporary debates about identity, gender and the constitution of the state. Since the fall of Suharto's government in 1998, politicians campaigning in national elections adjust their dress to appeal to specific constituencies.
- Categories
- Article/Artikel
- Magazine Title
- IIAS Newsletter
- Magazine Year
- 2008
- Magazine Number
- 48
- Creator
- Lanzona, Vina A.
- Creator
- Rettig, Tobias
- Creator
- Ang, Ien
- Creator
- [et al.]
- Contributor
- Blackburn, Susan
- Thesaurus
- oorlog en vrede, krijgsmacht, militaire beroepen, politie, heldinnen, gender, seksualiteit, lichamen, etniciteit, vrouwbeelden, communisme, geschiedenis, historisch, Azië
- Description
- This theme on Women Warriors in Asia highlights women's leadership and participation in warfare and revolution. Women are placed at the centre of explorations on war, revolution, and independence struggles in Asia.
- Categories
- Article/Artikel
- Magazine Title
- IIAS Newsletter
- Magazine Year
- 2008
- Magazine Number
- 46
- Creator
- Roces, Mina
- Thesaurus
- kleding, mode, gender, identiteit, Filipijnen, 20e eeuw
- Description
- Mina Roces argues that there was a tension between Western dress and Filipino dress throughout the 20th century. The contrast between these two types of dress came to represent opposing identities, though their associations with particular categories were not always static or predictable. Even in the gendering of costume, women were not necessarily always the 'bearers of tradition'. Women's dress however, continued to be the Other of men's dress.
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